Nice little find
Akita Boulder (NC 203 577)
This superb gneiss boulder sits below a small outcrop on the headland south of Oldshoremore. Steep on three sides with excellent quality, clean rock, crimpy and powerful climbing. The landing is assorted rocks which is great for keeping feet dry but not so nice to land on so a big mat is useful. Approach: Turn off for Oldshoremore and take the left hand fork immediately after. Follow this to the end of the tarmac and park in a small lay by. Ascend the slope above the road and walk due south, crossing a couple of faint ridges crowned by curious small erratics. The boulderfield and outcrop above is obvious in a small valley not far above the shore. 15 mins.
1 90’s Rock Font 6b+ ***
A first class problem taking the steep crack and right arête, starting from the obvious incut jug. A little scary at the top.
2 Project about Font 7b/c.
3 Something Worth Crimping For Font 7a **
The leaning wall left of the arête. Sit start as for Kobi then move left and crimp your way up the wall. Superb.
4 Kobi Font 6b+ *The arête. Sit start using a nice undercut. Pull past the good jugs and make a couple of thin moves.
5 Akita Font 6b+ *
Just right of the arête. Sit start as for Kobi, reach a small pocket and finish directly.
6 Growlers Font 6c
Start as for Akita, get the pocket with your left hand (more difficult) and finish rightwards.
7 Rubbish Guard Dog Font 6b+ *
Low sit start on good crimps. Lock off for a good incut and continue direct. Only 6a+ starting at the incut.
enjoy.
Hammering the Anvil
Tweedley on HammertimeThe Anvil has been taking a hammering of late, with Redpath, Tweedley, McGhee and myself all bagging some very nice projects. I managed to slap my way up Body Blow 8b+ on my 4th day. The first 4 moves are cellar style Font 7c+ to a jug, then an awesome 8a+ 45 degree wall to the top. This is the second half of what will be a mega route when my fingers are strong enough to handle double the length of climbing at the same difficulty standard. The full details for this crag are on the Scottish Climbs wiki now. It’s a lovely place, but don’t go there unless you are feeling fit unless you want to be humbled.
About me
Claire MacLeod
Thanks for coming to have a look at my site. I’m Dave, I’m a climber from Scotland and I live in Letterfinlay in the Scottish highlands with my wife Claire and my cat Puss Puss. This is my blog about my climbing, my life and my work. My work these days is climbing, writing, coaching, lecturing and making films.
I started climbing when I was 15 and climbed most of the hard rock and winter climbs in Scotland. For the last decade I’ve been making first ascents of as hard routes as possible in most climbing disciplines but especially trad, bouldering, sport climbing and winter climbing. My route Rhapsody was the first E11 graded climb in the world. My hardest climbs, Echo Wall (E11) and Anubis (XII) could be among the hardest summer and winter trad climbs in the world. I’ve also climbed 9a in sport climbing, V13/14 in bouldering and onsighted E7.
People in the wider world of climbing tend to hear about my climbing through the well known films E11 or Echo Wall or my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes.
Very Vocabulary Show #84 Learn English Vocabulary Words Podcast
Visit www.VeryVocabulary.com for great links and information. Help support the show by leaving positive reviews on iTunes, telling friends (email, etc...). We are a FREE podcast. It's a casual educational podcast.Very Vocabulary Show #83 Season 2 :: Learn English Vocabulary Words
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