HIMAPALA UNESA

Himapala Unesa adalah organisasi bergerak di bidang outdoorsport dan sosial.

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Hostile Habitats review

The Scottish mountaineering club are best known in the climbing world for a) stuffy gentlemen looking down their nose at the modern climbing scene, and b) lovingly produced and highly detailed climbing guidebooks. But despite this polarised image of the SMC as an organisation, its love and appreciation for the Scottish landscape and its climbs is undoubted. The fact that the SMC continue to dominate the market for walking and climbing guides in Scotland is testament to the ongoing improvement and passion for making lovely books. So it’s really quite a treat that they decided to bring out a book looking at the detail of the Scottish mountain environment itself. Whether they are ‘into’ landscape and wildlife as an interest in itself, no Scottish climber can honestly claim not to have appreciated the glories on offer just by travelling and climbing in Scotland; its just too beautiful, as they say.

The new Hostile Habitats book is a rough guide to everything natural that meets the eye in Scotland. But this is no dry environmental science textbook, its aimed at walkers and climbers, so its content is focused on what we see and are most likely to find interesting on out highland and island travels. The book covers in separate chapters Scotland’s geology, landforms, vegetation wildlife and human influences on the landscape. Few of us would sift through each of these huge disciplines in turn just to get a better feel for what we are seeing out there in the hills. After all, climbing is just a pastime for many of us. But with everything laid out in one book, well illustrated and supported by accessible text, we can educate ourselves and enrich the experience all the more, for the sake of a quick reference in one place. The idea here is that knowing that little bit more about the seasonal life of the mountain landscape, our eyes will be opened a little wider and we will get just a wee bit more from the day on the hill.

Surely all of you have been out climbing and been sat on a rock eating or belaying, starting to look more closely at the rock, the vegetation, or the shapes of the mountains and thought “I wonder…”

Anvil battling continues

More blood spilt at the Anvil yesterday in persuit of nails hard projects. Above is Dave Redpath's hand, ripped up after getting ever closer on the Heavy Metal project. My extremely irritating hole in my index finger only allowed me to warm up before splitting again. Al's super glue saved me from having to fully sit it out on a day of perfect conditions and sunshine. But with all the splitter inforced rest this week I have lost the edge (and a bit more!) off my endurance and didn't even regain my highpoint on the roof project. I always try to find something positive even if it's been a bad day, and I did get very close to the highpoint despite wobbling like a fool through the lower section which last week I could path. I also ran an experiment the night before to see if I could still drink a moderate amount of alcohol and still climb well the following day. Not possible! Two pints of beer, not even finished was enough to take a full grade off my ability.

Alan Cassidy dispatching Spitfire, which was seen off shortly afterwards by another man with big muscles; Robin Sutton. With 4 ascents now the route has finally seen its formal upgrade to 8a+.


Beautiful clear spring air looking across to Carrick Castle. The arete on the left is Anvilfire 7c+, already upgraded once because noone has managed to repeat it yet. Come on guys, get on that one next time and we can see if it's creeping towards 8a??


Back to reality

Return of the westerly winds of friction, but it didn't make any difference!


Spring is great when the fresh westerlies return - sunshine, clear air and nice ambience
Today was back to my normal climbing experience - getting slapped by the desperateness of my project. I got a little excited by getting over my mental block on the big dyno at the end. I did the move again and it felt ok. Now all I need to do is climb another 25 moves into it! The mental block came from 2 things - taking a bad fall, nearly breaking my nose and dislocating my pinky. And also because the harder I try to resist the wild swing the more I can feel my skin ripping on the tiny spike for my left. I was feeling stronger again after three days rest to recover split tips. But seems like my fears on the spike were justified as I split my tip once again on this hold and it was game over for another day (and the next two).
So, back to plasters and office work until the weekend, and worrying about loss of endurance for the Anvil project. Hopefully one handed fingerboarding until Saturday will restore some sense of not being a couch potato. I need to save the frustration to unleash on the Anvil roof on Sat...

Its down to the last one now!!!!

Chahala sit start, Font 8a. first ascent, Dumbarton Rock. (photos: Claire MacLeod)



Last week's project; Set in Motion, Font 7c+

Another couple of Dumbarton bouldering projects have gone down this week, so its just the 'big yin' left to go. Latest to go was the very steep arete SS to Chahala, a well known project that a good few of us had played on over the years. I never really tried it until last week, but it surprised me by being much easier than expected and went in a couple of days. So Dumby has another classic Font 8a which is sure to get a lot of attention. Much foot clamping, as with so many of the rock's hard problems is the order of the day. The other wee one was a SS to Tam's route. A wee font 7a slap off a small undercut.
My new lighter frame is now too weak to climb the finishing moves of my one remaining project, so a couple of sessions have yielded a gangly skinny malink sequence with less burly jumping across the roof and more inching and horizontal shuffling instead. It adds an extra 4 moves where I used to just jump in one, so god knows how it'll feel on the link??
A small hurdle in my way has occurred after I split my finger open climbing over a fence yesterday. It's unbelievable how a tiny cut in your fingertip can interfere so much with a full on climbing schedule. It's hanging in there just now and hopefully ready for the Anvil weekend raid. I'm off for some beauty sleep to grow a nice strip of new skin cells on my index finger tip that might just be the key to a new F8c????



Aberdeen

Finishing 'Kayla' on the Portlethen boulders (Photos by Stuart Stronach)



After yesterday's coaching in the north east, I had ten minutes at the end of the day to do a little bouldering before jumping on the train back home. We were at Portlethen and so I jumped on the hardest problem there; Kayla, a problem I'd heard much about in the climbing media and was keen to try. I wasn't exactly sure of the exact line on the headwall and if an underut on the left of a line of crimpers was 'in', so figured I better not use it. After a few minutes Stuart annouced it was time to leave and run for the train so I had to do the problem there and then or not at all! There's nothing like a deadline to galvanise your effort.
It turns out the undercut is allowed so I guess I did a slighty more direct variation just using the crimps at about Font 7c. The venue is quite small but it was good to see an active scene with lots of climbers dotting about with mats, and a crazy dog doing a sisyphyus impression by trying to push a barrel up the shore repeatedly.



Holmfirth talk - doh!

If you were planning to come along to my lecture in Holmfirth on thursday, sorry! The organisers had to cancel it. Bit of a bummer but unavoidble I'm afraid. If you already got a ticket then give the crag rats a call to get your cash back!

apologies...

Anvil day 4

The long morning walk and psyche up again


Downfall from the final move of the roof project

Iain Hutchinson on Amateur Hacker 6c, a rather balancy bit of climbing!

Chris Boutell on Way out West 6b

Iain on Hammertime 7b+

Iain about to complete Hammertime 7b+

Redpath's elbow turning slowly out above the crux of the Heavy Metal project

Resting arms but destroying my toes on my roof project

Rested and going for it! Well actually I was still pumped solid, but going for it anyway...
Closer still on the big roof line at the Anvil... touched the good hold on the end of a big dyno... but didn't hold it. The belay is one move further. Work will prevent any visits until next weekend. Until then!
If Redpath's shoulders get any wider they'll have to widen the forestry track down Loch Goil, but the training seems to be helping him stick the huge moves on his project with increasing regularity, with power screams that scare off the local sheep.
Iain seemed to enjoy the fingery Hammertime, but pointed out some sandbag grades for the other routes. Shadowlands is leaning towards 7c now. I wonder what he would have thought of Spitfire, the hardest 8a in the west?