Pigotts route

 I opened my eyes in the hut thinking it was early. It wasn't. A robin smith start saw us belayed under the crux icy chimney at noon, diff jugging up the rope we dropped for him. I led the crux on about 50% ice and the rest mixed hooks. I couldn't understand Marshall and smiths ten metre left traverse after this pitch until I filled andy up it, revealing an excellent 120 foot chute of perfect Nevis neve. We were spared the exposure of the final ridge crest by swirling mist. Descending number 3 gully we dithered about eyeing up the many glaring unclimbed lines on the mountain. 

In the morning andy and donald are off up to the top of minus three gully to rig it for paul. We'll hopefully climb it at good pace and rig observatory buttress before tea for the following day. 

Conditions were not quite as lucky as yesterday with mist and snow blowing about a bit. So fingers crossed tomorrow will go smoothly without too much standing still and shivering. 

Currently observing a good lesson in organised mountain hut regime from the large French team in residence. We scots are rather uncivilised by comparison!

Some pics and video heading down the mountain right now thanks to the runners...