Video: Alaskan First Ascents on Arrigetch Peaks

Awhile back I posted a great video that highlighted some tough climbs on the Arrigetech Peaks in Alaska's Brooks Range. Today we have another video from that expedition, this time shot by Corey Rich. On that excursion, the team skied 20 miles from their drop-off point just to reach Base Camp, where they then proceeded with the climbing. The video captures that adventure quite well, while also giving us an idea of how spectacular the wilderness is in that area.

The entire short film, which is nearly 20 minutes in length, was shot on a Nikon D7000, which is a very affordable and high quality DSLR that is perfect for these kinds of expeditions. It's amazing that we've come to the point where we can get great photos and video from the same camera.



Nikon - Deep North from Corey Rich on Vimeo.

Iditarod 2012: Dallas Seavey Wins!

The 2012 Iditarod crowned a new champion yesterday when 25-year old Dallas Seavey crossed the finish line in Nome at approximately 7:30PM local time. He is the youngest person to ever win the event which is dubbed the "Last Great Race."

Seavey's victory comes after ten days of intense racing across a trail that is nearly a thousand miles in length. He finished exactly one hour ahead of his closest competior – Aliy Zirkle – who claimed second place. Late charging Ramey Smyth was third with Aaron Burmeister and Peter Kaiser finishing fourth and fifth respectively. Four other mushers have also made it to Nome including Dallas' father Mitch who finished the race in seventh place. Last year's champ John Baker ended in ninth.

At the moment there are still 44 other teams still out on the trail and several of those are expected to finish today. In that group are fan favorite DeeDee Jonrowe, currently running in 10th place, as well as Brent Sass and Yukon Quest champ Hugh Neff.

With the win, Dallas joins his dad as an Iditarod champ. Mitch won the race back in 2004. But more than that, the younger Seavey fulfills the promise that he has been showing over the last couple of years. Not only did he race very well in the Junior Iditarod a few years back, he also became the youngest person to win the Yukon Quest last year. Since first entering the Last Great Race at the age of 18 he has continued to improve his position every year. Following a fourth place finish last year, he was amongst the contenders heading into the 2012 edition of the race.

Congrats to Dallas, Aliy and Ramey on a great race to the finish and good luck to the remaining competitors who will continue to come in over the next few days.

Iditarod 2012: And Then There Were Three

The 2012 Iditarod will be decided today, we just don't know who will claim victory in Nome just yet. The frontrunners have arrived in White Mountain, which is just two checkpoints away from the finish and at the moment they are serving out a final mandatory 8 hour rest before they begin the final run to the end.

As I write this, Dallas Seavey is in first place with a one hour and 11 minute lead over Aliy Zirkle. Racing in third place is Ramey Smyth who is another 52 minutes back. Aaron Burmeister is the only other musher to reach White Mountain at this point and Peter Kaiser is currently holding down the fifth position on his way into the CP.

Once they have completed their mandatory rest, the teams will head back out onto the trail. That means Dallas will maintain his lead as they resume the race, but what happens after that is what will ultimately decide the outcome. The leg from White Mountain to Safety, the penultimate checkpoint, will be a challenging 55 miles in length and from there it will be just 22 miles to Nome.

The wildcard in the top three is Ramey, who struggled at the mid-point of this race but has come back very strong now. Smyth has bolted past a number of very good teams and is now in position to contend for the win, something that seemed unthinkable just a few days ago.

Now it all comes down to who has the fresher dogs and sets the right pace. Nome is close but there are still many miles to go until these teams are done. Trail tactics can still play a role in who will come out on top. No matter who wins however, it is going to be an exciting finish.

The winner should arrive in Nome sometime early evening today.

For more Iditarod coverage be sure to check-out the Iditablog.

Iditarod 2012: Father and Son Lead the Way!

The 2012 Iditarod is shaping up to be one of the best races in recent memory. With the teams now past the halfway point, the mushers are beginning to think about the best strategies for the stretch run to Nome. That has led to some tactical moves out on the course that could have an impact on the outcome of the race in the days ahead.

Earlier today the first racers arrived at the checkpoint in Ruby, which falls at the 545 mile mark along the trail. Father-son duo Mitch and Dallas Seavey were the first to arrive and both have elected to take their mandatory 8-hour rest at that point. That has allowed Aliy Zirkle to retake the lead out on the course as she blasted through Ruby, stopping just long enough to check in and out.

The current leaderboard has Zirkle out in front as the only musher through Ruby. Behind her are the two Seaveys, followed by defending champ John Baker and Aaron Burmeister, who are holding down the fourth and fifth spots respectively. The only other musher who has reached the Ruby checkpoint is Jeff King, who now sits in the sixth position.

While it appears that the other racers have elected to rest in Ruby, Zirkle is making a bold move to try to put enough distance between herself and the pack so that she can take her 8-hour rest period down the line without surrendering back too much ground. The hope is that she can run faster over the next few legs of the race so that she can be on even footing when the final run to Nome begins. We'll just have to wait to see if that strategy will pay off.

Other names of note include four-time champ Lance Mackey, who is currently running in 18th place and Yukon Quest champ Hugh Neff who is holding down the 23rd position. Fan favorite DeeDee Jonrowe is making a great account of herself running in eighth place at the moment as well.

For more Iditarod coverage be sure to checkout the Iditablog.

Iditarod 2012: Well Rested Teams on the Move

Following a slower day yesterday, thanks to most of the mushers taking a mandatory 24-hour rest break, the action in the 2012 Iditarod is heating up once again today. The teams are on the move once again, and steaming towards the halfway point, where the first to arrive will receive a very rich reward indeed.

Iditarod 2012: Mandatory Rest for Mushers and Dogs

It has been a bit more of a subdued pace today for the competitors in the 2012 Iditarod, mostly because a number of the teams have are now taking their mandatory 24-hour rest. This rest day was instituted a few years back to ensure that both mushers and dogs were staying healthy and alert while out on the trail. Once they've competed their layover however, it'll be back to the trail for more intense racing.

The leaderboard remains crowded with big names at the top and as I write this, Aliy Zirkle remains in first place. Just behind her is John Baker and Mitch Seavey in second and third respectively. Jeff King and young-gun Dallas Seavey round out the top five.

Each of those racers, along with a host of others, are in the Takotna checkpoint, which seems to be a popular place to serve out the mandatory rest time. That CP sits at 329 mile marker for the race, or about a third of the way through.

Four-time champ Lance Mackey is currently running in 32nd place, although mostly because he has elected to rest at the McGrath checkpoint, about 18 miles behind the leaders. He'll definitely be back in the thick of things once he has completed the rest period and will likely pass most of those currently ahead of him when he blows through Takotna. This was a strategic move on his part and we'll see if it pays off down the line.

So far, all 66 mushers are still in the race, which is great news actually. That means that no one has gotten hurt out on the trail or had their dogs get sick or injured either. Usually be now we've seen one or two drop out for one reason or another, but so far the 2012 edition of the Last Great Race has been a safe and smooth one for the most part.

Iditarod 2012: Legends Lurk on the Leaderboard

The 2012 Iditarod has moved into its first crucial stage with the mushers moving through Rainy Pass, a notorious piece of the trail that has dashed the dreams of a number of competitors in the past. The lead teams are now through that difficult section and have moved into Nikolai, with some very impressive names now lurking near the top.

As of this writing, Aliy Zirkle leads the race as the first person into the Nikolai checkpoint. Joining her at that stop are last year's winner John Baker, currently running in second, and four-time Iditarod champ Lance Mackey. Still out on the trail, but steaming towards the leaders are Kelley Griffin in fourth place and the "innovator" himself Jeff King. Mitch Seavey and Dallas Seavey are both in the top ten as well, making it a very impressive group out in front.

Nikolai falls 263 miles into the race, which is nearly a thousand miles long. That means the lead teams are about a quarter of the way to the end in Nome and by most accounts they are very happy with the trail conditions thus far. If the weather holds out, we should see a winner crowned early next week.

Stay tuned for updates in the days ahead.

Iditarod 2012: Off and Running!

As I mentioned last week, the 2012 Iditarod got underway this past weekend with 66 musher setting out on Saturday from the ceremonial start in Anchorage. That first stage ran for just 11 miles, ending at Campbell Airstrip, where the teams were promptly loaded up and moved to the town of Willow for the official re-start yesterday. That took place as scheduled and the mushers are all now officially out on the course and making their way towards Nome.

Like any long distance race, the first few days of the event rarely have an impact on the final outcome. That said however, there are already a few well known names lurking at the top of the leaderboard. As of this writing, Nicolas Petit is currently in first place and the only competitor that has reached Finger Lake, the fifth checkpoint of the race located 153 miles down the trail. Bren Sass is in second, with Tom Thurston in third, followed by Ray Redington, Jr and defending champ John Baker rounding out the top five. All of those teams are through the Skwentna checkpoint and are now en route to Finger Lake.

Other names of note include Hugh Neff, winner of the 2012 Yukon Quest, currently running in the sixth position and former champs Mitch Seavey and Lance Mackey running in the ninth and tenth positions respectively.

At the moment, the mushers are still fairly well grouped up with not a lot of distance between them. That will likely begin to change today as racers start to reach the more challenging sections of the trail starting at Rainy Pass, the first checkpoint after Finger Lake. Over the next few days we should start to see the real contenders start to emerge, with the first teams expected to arrive in Nome sometime early next week.

2012 Iditarod Begins Tomorrow!

One of my favorite events each year is the Iditarod, the 1000-mile long sled dog race through the Alaskan wilderness. The 2012 edition of the race is set to get underway tomorrow with the ceremonial start taking place in Anchorage. At that start, 66 teams will parade down city streets before an enthusiastic crowd which will be mostly non-existant at the official start on Sunday, when they'll take to the trail for the first time and begin the dash for Nome.

Billed as the "Last Great Race," the Iditrod is never short on excitement and drama as some of the top mushers in the world go head-to-head across an always challenging course. The race commemorates a historic 1925 sled dog run in which teams raced to deliver medicine to combat a diphtheria epidemic that threatened the lives of many children in Nome. Now, many years later, it has become the most popular and famous sporting event in Alaska.

The course actually has two different routes which are used on alternating years in order to protect the trail. In even numbered years, like this one, the mushers take the Northern Route, which runs through Cripple, Ruby, Galena, Nulato, and Kaltag – checkpoints that aren't on the Southern Route. The course is also slightly shorter this year due to a few changes in logistics. Instead of the usual 1049 mile length, this time out it will be a "mere" 975 miles instead.

This year's field of racers is as deep as ever with some very familiar names competing for the top spot. Lance Mackey is back for another go of course, as is Jeff King. Both of those legendary mushers had talked about retirement after last year's race, but it seems they can't find anything better to do in Alaska in March. They'll be challenged by Hugh Neff, who is coming off a great win at the Yukon Quest, and Dallas Seavey, one of the more promising young racers to emerge over the past few years.

Unlike other parts of the U.S., Alaska has had plenty of snow and ice this winter. That means the trail is going to be challenging, particularly out in the more remote areas. The lead teams will be forced to break trail much of the way, which can tire the dogs out, but considering the amount of experience in this field, I'd expect them to work well with one another – at least until Nome is in sight.

It should be another fun race to follow. Expect the winner to reach the finish line approximately 8 to 10 days after getting underway.

Hugh Neff Wins 2012 Yukon Quest

The 1000 mile long Yukon Quest sled dog race was won by veteran musher Hugh Neff earlier this week, when he crossed the finish line just 26 seconds ahead of second place finisher Allen Moore. It took Neff just 9 days, 16 hours, and 5 minutes to cover the course, which is run annually between Fairbanks and White Horse. Neff managed to make up 42 minutes of time over his rival in the final 100 miles, to nip him at the finish line.

Third place in the race went to Lance Mackey, who has won the YQ on four occasions. He was about 5 hours and 20 minutes off the pace, but says he felt like he actually won, since his dogs were on all three of the top teams. Jake Berkowitz and Brent Sass rounded out the top five at the event.

The Yukon Quest is always in interesting preview of what to expect at the Iditarod, which gets underway in about two weeks time. That race will actually be shorter than the YQ this year, dropping to 975 miles in length, due to changes in the course and the ceremonial start in Anchorage. Still, it remains one an amazing event, and should be fun to follow once again this year.

Video: Load Bearing - An Adaptive Alaskan Adventure

In June of 2011, a team of disabled climbers traveled to Alaska to take on an unnamed peak in the Alaska Range, near the Upper Eldridge glacier. They were part of the Telluride Adaptive Sports Program (TASP) and the expedition was led by Mountain Trip guides. Their story is told in in the beautiful short film, made by a friend of mine, below. The film is roughly 20 minutes in length, but is well worth the a watch.

Enjoy and share with others.


load bearing from Craig Stein on Vimeo.

Video: Winter Climb On Arrigetch Peak In Alaska

While we're in the mood for climbing videos today, check out this one, which documents a winter climb of Arrigetch Peak in Alaska along a new 5.11+ route. That mountain falls inside the Brooks Range, above the Arctic Circle no less, which would make it a challenge to climb in any season, let alone the dead of the Alaskan winter.

The short film follows climbers Tommy Caldwell, Hayden Kennedy, and Corey Rich as they ski to the mountain, then proceed up a 1300-foot route. It is quite a challenge and quite an adventure. Looks like they had a great time doing it too!



Deep North: A Trip to the Arrigetch Peaks from Deep Roots Media - Dane Henry on Vimeo.

Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre, who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all.

On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be expected on the world's most challenging mountain, but despite high winds and -75ºF/-59ºC temperatures, the talented team continues to make progress.

Working in teams of two and three, they have been focused on fixing ropes above Camp 1, and according to updates on their website, C2 could be established as early as tomorrow. The climbers have taken turns installing the lines and sleeping at altitude in order to not only acclimatize, but also stay well rested for the challenges ahead. All team members and gear are now on the mountain, and many of their supplies have also been shuttled up to C1. Progress has been slow, but steady, but the real difficulties will set in above Camp 2, where the winds and heavy snows of K2 will really start to become a problem.

Meanwhile, two teams are getting settled in over on Nanga Parbet, which also remains unclimbed in the winter. Denis Urubko and Simone Moro were the first to arrive and after getting settled in Base Camp, they began their ascent. The duo has already established Camp 1 at 5100 meters (16,732 ft) and spent a night their acclimatizing, but unstable snow conditions above that point have prevented them from going higher.

Upon returning to BC, Denis and Simone discovered they had company. The Polish team that has also set its sights on Nanga this season was in camp and getting set-up as well. The two teams will no doubt share the work load of fixing the lines, although you know that they each want to be the first to claim the summit.

Denis and Simone are also releasing video dispatches of their journey, the first of which can be seen below. The excellent video shows the men as they leave Italy and make their way to Pakistan, where they organize gear and put the finishing touches on their planning, before heading out to Base Camp. Pay special attention to all the bags they have with them. It'll give you a sense of how much gear is required for one of these expeditions. Can't wait for more of these dispatches! Great stuff!

Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre, who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however, the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several days stuck inside a snow cave, he elected to pull the plug on the entire expedition.

Lonnie spent the weekend descending the mountain in horrible conditions. Updates to his website say that the visibility was almost non-existent and winds topped out at 97 mph (156 km/h). Additionally, temperatures fell to a bone-numbing -72ºF/-58ºC, and with a revised forecast saying the weather pattern had settled in for at least a week, the climber made the wise decision to head home.

This marks the second year in a row that weather has halted Dupre's attempt at history on North America's tallest peak. Last year, under similar conditions, he was left stranded in a snow cave for moe than a week, while a blizzard raged outside. I'm sure he wasn't eager to repeat that scenario, which is why he left the relative safety of his cave and headed down this time out.

As of this morning, Lonnie was in Base Camp at 7200 feet (2194 meters), where he'll wait for a plane to come pick him up. That won't happen until the weather improve either, but at lower altitudes the conditions can be quite different. Hopefully he'll be safely extracted over the next day or two, and on his way home soon there after.

Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions.

On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization process and to shuttle gear to High Camp. He has since returned to Low Camp at 4328 meters (14,200 ft), where he is keeping a close eye on the weather and hoping for a window that will allow him to go to the summit.

Yesterday, he awoke in his snow cave and was getting dressed for the climb, when the winds suddenly grew in intensity, so rather than risk it, Lonnie elected to stay put, rest up, and wait for another opportunity. Essentially the stage has been set for him to make his summit bid, all he needs now is a weather window long enough to give him access to the top. His home team says that they are anticipating such a window in the next few days. When it comes, we could see the first ever solo summit of the mountain in January.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Russians have continued their work fixing the lines up the mountain, and have completed their work up to 6050 meters (19,750 ft). That is the altitude at which they've established their Camp 1, and a trio of climbers (Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich) have shuttled the first round of gear up to that point today. They'll place a tent at C1 and spend the night there, before descending back down the mountain tomorrow, when another three climbers will rotate up the face and continue fixing ropes above that point.

The weather forecast on K2 isn't very enticing. Yesterday they toiled away in -51ºC/-60ºF temperatures and those are expected to go lower in the days ahead. The high winds at altitude are expected to drop some over the next few days though, which should make the working conditions a bit better, despite the colder temperatures. Such is winter on the world's second tallest peak.

Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest.

The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their efforts. They report that there is little snow on the mountain, at least at this point, but that the temperatures are bitterly cold, as one would expect on the second highest mountain on the planet.

The climbers arrived in BC over the weekend, after being shuttled in by a Pakistani military helicopter, and immediately went to work building their base of operations, organizing their gear, and preparing for the work ahead. It took three flights of the large MI-17 helo to deliver all of the men and their gear to BC, but after waiting out several weather delays, they were happy to finally be on the mountain at last. They now have until March 20th to successfully complete the first winter ascent of K2.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre has been a very busy man on Denali, where he hopes to complete the first solo climb of that mountain in January. He has been building a series of snow caves on the mountain, which will serve as his camps as he goes, and had already shuttled much of his gear up to 4876 meters (16,000 ft). He plans to carry those supplies up to 5242 meters (17,200 ft) tomorrow and establish his High Camp there, before returning to his Low Camp as part of the normal acclimatization process.

Having reached those heights so early in January bodes well for the success of the expedition, but that said, as always on Denali, the weather will decide if and when he can go to the summit. High winds and extremely cold temperatures (-60ºF/-51ºC) have been the norm so far. The mountain is notorious for its bad weather, particularly in the winter, and blizzards can rage for days on end. With that in mind, I'm sure Lonnie wants to take advantage of the current conditions as long as he can, so that he can squeeze through any weather window that is presented.

These two climbers are going to present some amazing drama in the days and weeks ahead. Stay tuned for plenty of updates as both the Russians and Lonnie go after their respective summits.

Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. 

Winter Climb Updates: Russians On Their Way To BC, Lonnie in Talkeetna

The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin.

First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then, they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of the equipment will be shipped via helicopter, where it will be waiting for them to arrive, and while the support crew works at putting the final touches on their preparation work, the eight climbers who will be working the mountain have started their acclimatization process. They'll spend a few days climbing the nearby Sadpara Mountains, before heading into BC itself. The hope is to arrive their by Sunday, Christmas Day, when they'll officially start the expedition.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre is also putting the finishing touches on his preparations to take on Denali once again. He's also keeping a close eye on the weather as well. According to his website, he'll be off to Base Camp as soon as his air taxi can deliver him to the frozen wilderness. Dupre is returning to the mountain once again this winter in an attempt to become the first person to solo-summit in the month of January. To that end, he hopes to be in position on January 1st so that he has a full 31 days to accomplish his goal. Last year, his attempt was thwarted by bad weather, which is a common occurrence on North America's tallest peak during the winter.

Both of these climbs are going to be epic. Lonnie's solo bid on Denali is a bold mountaineering feat and the Russian K2 squad could be attempting the impossible. For those of us who love to follow these kinds of adventures, it is certainly going to be fun to watch. Lets just hope everyone stays very safe.

Lonnie Dupre Returns To Denali This Winter

The winter season will certainly be an interesting one this year. Not only are the Russians taking on K2, but now ExWeb is reporting that Lonnie Dupre will return to Denali, where he hopes to make the first solo winter ascent of that mountain in January. This will be round 2 for Dupre and Denali, with the mountain winning their first bout last year.

Last year, Dupre traveled to Alaska in the coldest and darkest portion of winter just to attempt to scale the 6193 meter (20,320 ft) peak at the most challenging time possible. He was able to go as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) before his climb was halted by a massive blizzard. For the next seven days, Lonnie waited out the storm, which included winds in excess of 100 mph and temperatures that dipped to -50ºF/-45ºC. After it finally passed, he was forced to give up his quest and leave Denali behind. In January 2012, he'll return to the Alaskan wilderness to give it another go.

ExWeb says that Dupre's approach to the climb will remain largely the same as last year, during which he didn't carry a tent at all, but instead built snow caves along his route. Those caves were used not only for shelter, but also as gear caches, which he stocked as he acclimatized to the weather and altitude. In attempt to shed some weight however, he will be packing all of his food in freeze dried form. That way he won't have to carry much in the way of cooking gear and will simply need to heat it up over a stove and eat it straight from the package. The intention is to cut weight as much as possible, go light and fast, and hope that the speed will allow him to bag the peak in what ever narrow weather window is provided.

You can bet we'll be following this expedition once again. It was very compelling reading last time out and I suspect it will be again this year. Lonnie is a veteran polar explorer, but even he was pushed to the limits on Denali this past January.