Nat Geo Adventure Interviews Simone Moro

Italian alpinist Simone Moro is amongst the best high altitude mountaineers in the world today. His list of accomplishments include multiple summits of Everest and Lhotse, as well as the first winter ascents on Shisha Pangma, Makalu and Gasherbrum II, amongst others. Recently National Geographic Adventure caught up with Simone for a brief interview, which you can read by here.

In the interview, which is conducted by Freddie Wilkinson who is no slouch of a climber either, Moro discusses his recent efforts to launch a climbing school in the Karakoram, his thoughts on the use of supplemental oxygen on the world's tallest mountains and his epic traverse of Everest. On that expedition Simone climbed up the South Side of the mountain in Nepal but descended on the North Side into Tibet, where he received a fine from the Chinese for making an illegal climb. He completed that adventure without the assistance of guides or Sherpas no less.

The interview itself isn't particularly long, but there are a lot insights to be gained from it. Simone is an interesting guy and he obviously knows a lot about mountaineering. He has made some of the most difficult climbs ever and seems to thrive on suffering. He also seems to favor winter climbs on the big peaks as the crowds are far smaller and the challenges are bigger.

Definitely worth a read if you're interested in high altitude climbing.

Winter Climb Update: Alex Still Alone in BC?

Now that spring has officially arrived, the winter climbs in the Karakoram are officially over and nearly everyone has gone home. But Basque climber Alex Txikon may be the only one left in Base Camp as he patiently waits for a helicopter to finally come pick him up.

As you may recall, Alex was on Gasherbrum I where he was part of an international team that had hoped to open a new route while achieving the first winter summit on that mountain. Unfortunately, things didn't go as planned and teammates Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen and Nisar Hussein all went missing on that expedition.

While those three were making their summit bid, Alex first attempted to follow along behind, but when that proved impossible, he switched his attention to the nearby Gasherbrum South. Conditions weren't right for that summit either and ultimately he ended up back in BC. But while he struggled to make his climb he managed to catch frostbite on several fingers and toes, which would have made the trek out to civilization a lot more painful. With that in mind, he decided to stay in Base Camp and wait for a helicopter to pick him up instead, but the weather hasn't been all that cooperative so he has waited in BC with just a skeleton support crew, while the rest of the team made their way home.

In a blog post yesterday we received word that the weather forecast called for better conditions today and they were expecting two helicopters to be sent to Gasherbrum I at last. One of those helicopters would pick-up Alex and fly him to safety while the other would conduct one last search for the missing climbers. There is no word yet on whether or not this has happened, but as you can probably imagine, Alex is anxious to head home. He has been way from Spain since December and it has been one long and trying expedition to say the least.

Hopefully as I write this he is already off the mountain, but if not it should be soon. His departure will put an end to the winter climbing coverage and now we turn to the spring season, which promises to be as active as ever.

Winter Climb Update: Search Called Off on GI

On Monday of this week I posted a story about three climbers who had gone missing while attempting a new route on Gasherbrum I. At the time, a number of mountaineers were gathering in Base Camp to begin searching the mountain for their missing friends, but bad weather was preventing the use of helicopters to aid in the search. Now, just a few days later, that search has been called off altogether and all hope is lost for the missing trio.

Last Thursday, Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen and Nisar Hussein all set off for the summit of GI in good weather. They were hoping to not only complete the new route but also the first winter ascent of the mountain and they even called home to say that they were only 450 meters from to top and that they felt confident that they would make it. The worst was behind them, or so they thought. What happened next will likely remain a mystery. The support team never heard from them again, although they held out hope that the battery could have simply died on their sat-phone.

The following day the talented Polish team that had also been working the mountain accomplished their goal of claiming the first winter summit of Gasherbrum I. When they returned, Adam Bielecki, Janusz Golab and their two Pakistani guides, Ali Sadpara and Shaheen Baig, claimed to have spotted Gerfried, Cedric, and Nisar from the summit. They said the three men were still climbing after they appeared to have bivouacked high on GI the night before. Presumably the tree men met an untimely fate after that.

Over the past couple of days, climbers have gone as high as Camp 2 on the normal GI route and have seen no sign of their companions. Had they been successful on the summit, the team was expected to descend along that path. Eventually the weather did clear, allowing the helicopters to join the search at last, but they too have turned up no trace of the missing men. So it was with heavy hearts today that the search teams announced that they were calling off the operation. They have accepted that Gerfried and company have succumbed to the mountain.

My condolences to the friends and families of these three men.

Winter Climb Update: Climbers Still Missing On GI

Last Friday seemed like a triumphant day on Gasherbrum I, as the Polish team that has struggled on that  mountain for more than two months, notched the first winter ascent of the mountain. But the joy of that climb has been tempered with the fact that three climbers from another team have gone missing and there has been no news on there whereabouts for the past two days.

Late last week Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen and Nisar Hussein were the first to set out from Base Camp on GI to take advantage of a weather window that could give them access to the summit along a new route. Late in the day on Thursday they called home to report that they were just 450 meters (1476 ft) beneath the summit and that they felt good about their prospects of topping out. Their support team hasn't heard from them since.

When the Poles went to the summit along the normal route the following day, they reported that they saw the three climbers continuing their ascent along the mountains East Ridge. That was the last anyone has seen of the men and what has become of them after that remains a mystery.

The brief weather window has now closed and high winds and bitterly cold temperatures have returned to  the Gasherbrums. Those conditions have made if very difficult to launch a search and rescue mission at the moment, as all helicopters in the region have been grounded. There are a number of climbers standing by to begin the search, but for now they are waiting for a some kind of break in the weather. That break may not come for another few days.

Alex Txikon, who was part of the missing climbers' team, is back in Base Camp after his attempt to summit went awry late last week as well. He and Tamara Stys gave up on their GI climb but attempted to summit nearby Gasherbrum South, which wasn't successful either. It seems likely that the Basque climber will now try to lend some aid to finding his missing friends, but all further attempts to climb Gasherbrum I are done.

Finally, the Poles have posted a summit report from their successful climb last week, which you can read here. They also posted the video of the climb, which you can see below. It gives us an indication of how challenging the final push was and what kind of weather they were dealing with even at the end. Congrats to that team on a job well done.

Lets keep our fingers crossed for Gerfried, Cedric, and Nisar that they are found alive and well.

Winter Climb Update: Summits on GI But Climbers Still Missing

The last 24-hours have been a roller coaster ride of emotions on Gasherbrum I. We now have confirmed summits, the first ever on the 8080 meter (26,509 ft) mountain during the winter season, but we are still awaiting word on the whereabouts of one team that hasn't been heard from since yesterday morning.

We'll start with the good news. The Polish team that we've been following over the past few months successfully reached the summit of GI this morning at 8:30 AM local time. The two Polish climbers who made history were Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb and they were joined by two Pakistani guides, Ali Sadpara and Shaheen Baig, as well. The team made the ascent along the "normal" Japanese route, and all the climbers are now reportedly safely back down in Camp 2 and will likely return to BC tomorrow.

Yesterday I posted the news that the international team led by Gerfried Goschl was last heard from when they were just 450 meters (1476 ft) beneath the summit. They seemed in good spirits and were confident that they would top out amidst improving weather, but after that report there were no further updates and those of us following along at home began to worry. Today we get the news that the Polish team spotted their tent from the summit and it appears that Gerfried and friends are still trying to make their way to the top.

The team is climbing a new route so they may have run into some unexpected problems that have slowed them down. The weather remains good, by winter Karakoram standards anyway, so hopefully they'll get the opportunity to complete the new route and stand on top as well. For now, keep your fingers crossed that all is well, and that they get back down the mountain safely.

There is no official word yet on where Alex Txikon is on GI, although his plan was to attempt the summit today as well. ExWeb is reporting that he and Polish climber Tamara Stys attempted to ascend Gasherbrum South, a secondary peak nearby, but were turned back along their chosen route. If that is true, they may be headed back to Base Camp as well.

Stay tuned for more updates as we get them.

Winter Climb Update: Summit in Sight on GI!

Today is the day that the climbers on Gasherbrum I have been waiting for. For the past few months, the teams on that mountain have struggled o fix ropes, build camps and acclimatize. They've also had to be very patient while they waited for the weather to cooperate. That may have finally happened, as a projected weather window has opened and teams are now moving towards the summit. In fact, as I write this, one group of climbers may have already stood on top and are already making their way back down.

According to ExWeb, and his own expedition site, Gerfried Goschl, who is leading a group of international climbers, which includes Alex Txikon, may have already topped out on GI. We're still waiting for confirmation, but the team's last dispatch indicated that they were just 450 meters (1476 ft) below the summit and that dispatch was sent hours ago. The group intends to descend on the opposite side from which they climbed, completing a traverse of the mountain, but that descent is expected to be a challenging one so we all wait with bated breath for news on their safe return.

Meanwhile, Alex isn't a part of this first summit team but according to his website he should have been in Camp 2 yesterday and move up to C3 today. That would put him in position to go for the summit tomorrow as well and since the forecast indicates lessening winds and clearing skies, as long as he's physically feeling up to the task, there is a good chance he'll stand on top tomorrow.

Finally, the Polish team on the mountain have reportedly moved to Camp 3 yesterday and should soon be on their way to towards the summit as well. Their plan is to leave late this evening and reach the summit in plenty of time tomorrow as well.

Stay tuned for news on each of these expeditions. We could be watching history unfold as the first winter climb of Gasherbrum I is successfully completed.

Winter Climb Update: Second Summit Bid Begins Today!

The climbers on Gasherbrum I have been patiently waiting for the weather to turn in their favor so that they can make another attempt at the summit. After being stymied last week, the two teams have been stuck in Base Camp while high winds buffeted the mountain, making it impossible to climb higher. But the March weather forecast is in and their is now a slim chance of not one but two weather windows to the top.

According to the Polish team, the first of those weather windows is scheduled to open on Thursday of this week, so in order to take advantage of that opportunity, they have set off today for Camp 1. Tomorrow they'll actually skip C2 and move directly to Camp 3 in order to be in position to go for the summit should the winds die down long enough to allow access. This is a very narrow window indeed and they'll have to be positioned just right if they are to succeed.

Should this opportunity not proceed as expected, the long term forecast says that another window could appear around the 19th of the month. Hurricane force winds are predicted between the 13th and 18th, but after that a period of calm could potentially set in. The problem is that the climbers are now racing the clock. They each hope to make the first winter ascent of GI and as we all know winter will end on March 20th.

The international team of which Alex Txikon is part has also started to move up the mountain in hopes of taking advantage of the opportunity. Alex will set out today as well, although reportedly some of his compatriots started their ascent yesterday. Summit day is going to be a cold and blustery one, that much is certain. If the teams do go to the top on Thursday, the winds are expected to drop down to 50 km/h (31 mph) and temperatures are predicted to be in the -44ºC/-47ºF range.

I'll keep you posted on progress as best I can. Hopefully everyone gets up and down safely, with or without the summit.

Winter Climb Update: Base Camp Departures and More High Winds

For the past few days we've been waiting for news from Gasherbrum I where the two remaining Karakoram winter climbing teams have been weighing their options. As you'll recall, summit bids earlier in the week were turned back due to high winds and both the Polish squad and Alex and Carlos have been in Base Camp ever since. Today we get news from both groups as well as a new weather forecast that isn't all that promising.

First up, Alex reports that his climbing companion Carlos Suarez is heading home. This is a sad day for the two men who had hoped to climb the mountain together, but it seems that March 1st was always marked off as the day that Carlos would depart to take care of some other commitments. They had hoped to have reached the summit by this point, but obviously the unpredictable winter weather hasn't made that happen. Alex is actually climbing as part of a larger team however so he won't be taking on GI solo.

The Polish team says that one of the members of their team has taken ill over the past few days and is suffering from what they call "heart burn." He has slept for most of the past three days however and they suspect that something else is going on. As a result, the team members climbing days are likely done for this winter and he is probably confined to Base Camp until they all head home.

A new weather forecast indicates that high winds are once again expected over the next few days. Speeds could hit as much as 120 kph (74 mph) at altitude which of course means that no one will be going up during that storm. There is the possibility of a new weather window opening up around the 8th or 9th of March however, so everyone is prepared to sit things out in BC until then. If that window doesn't appear, Gasherbrum I may indeed go unclimbed for another winter.

Winter Climb Update: What Next?

There are only two teams left in the Karakoram this winter, and both are on Gasherbrum I. Both of those teams are hoping to make the first winter ascent of that 8080 meter (26,509 ft) peak, but as usual the weather hasn't been all that cooperative thus far. That was evident once again earlier this week when both squads were forced to abort their summit bids due to the failure of a weather window to open as expected. High winds in excess of 100 km/hr (62 mph) above 7000 meters made it impossible for them to go higher, and for the past few days we've wondered if they would have another go or pack up their things and go home.

While it is still unclear whether or not Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez will remain on the mountain and make another attack on the summit, the Polish team has made it clear that they will stay to fight another day. They make no apologies for having a go at the summit, and ultimately turning back, because as they note, you must take advantage of all opportunities in the winter, as you never know when one will be your last.

A new weather forecast is expected today and it will give the climbers some insights into what they can expect over the next week to ten days. If that forecast is a bad one, we could still see a change in plans, but if there is a glimmer of hope, it seems they'll stay and attempt the summit once more.

While we wait, check out the video that the Polish team posted on their website. It not only shows the conditions they were dealing with on their summit bid, but the effects of climbing in that weather as well. One of the climbers apparently slipped and hit his head on the ice, which is evidenced by blood running down his nose. Just what you need in sub-zero temperatures and howling winds, at high altitude no less.

Winter Climb Update: Summit Bid Off For Now

It isn't often that I publish two updates on the same expedition in the same day, but I feel that it it warranted in this case. Earlier I posted a story about the on going efforts of climbers to make the first successful winter climb on Gasherbrum I and how both the Polish team and Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez were in the midst of a summit bid. Now, according to this story from ExWeb, both teams have retreated and are safely back in Base Camp, where they will decide on what to do next.

As I mentioned in the earlier post, a weather window was expected to arrive on GI starting tomorrow, and the climbers hoped to take advantage of it and move up to the summit. But apparently the winds didn't die down as expected, and the teams were caught out in a maelstrom. The Poles were on their way up to Camp 3 when they decided it was too dangerous, while the other climbers were headed towards C2 at the time.

The question now is, what happens next. According to ExWeb, the teams will decide their respective fates tomorrow, and I suspect the weather forecast will be a major contributing factor. If another window is on the horizon, they may give it one more go. But if the weather is expected to remain bad, I'm guessing you'll see them coming home. After two months on the mountain, they are surely exhausted and out of patience.

I'll post an update on their decision when we get one, but for now it seems they're huddling up in BC and attempting to figure out if they have any strength, or desire, for another round with the mountain.

Winter Climb Update: Gasherbrum Summit Bids Have Begun!

After weeks of preparation and hard work in the Himalaya, the teams on Gasherbrum I may finally be ready for the big payoff. The weather remains a bit difficult, and high winds are currently buffeting the higher camps on the mountain, but a window to the summit is expected to open starting tomorrow, and the climbers have now moved into position to take advantage of it.

The Polish squad started their ascent on Saturday and made it to Camp 1 by early afternoon. Presumably they climbed higher yesterday and today, and although there are no updated since they set out, we have to assume that they are positioned in Camp 3, where they are hoping for the winds to die down long enough to make their summit bid tomorrow. If all goes as planned, we could see history made with the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I.

Meanwhile, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez also moved up to Camp 1 yesterday and have plans to climb to C2 today. They are also getting themselves into position to make a summit bid, although it does seem like they are a bit behind the Poles on the ascent. Depending on how the weather patterns play out, they could be making their ascent at the same time however.

I'll be keeping an eye on the proceeds over the next 24 hours and looking for updates. It seems that it is now or never on GI, as the winter season has been a long one and the days starting to run short. The climbers still have a few weeks until the official end of winter, but they may not have the strength to continue battling the elements at altitude. For now, we'll just have to sit, wait, and watch how it all plays out.

If you've ever wondered what it is like during these high winds and winter storms, check out the video below. It was shot by the Polish team and gives you a good sense of what they've been dealing with. Yikes!

Winter Climb Update: Holding Tight On Gasherbrum I

The last two teams in Pakistan this winter are on Gasherbrum I (8080m/26,509 ft), where they are currently huddled in Base Camp and preparing for a major storm to hit. By all accounts, the Polish Squad and Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez, are prepared to go to the summit, but the weather will now dictate if and when that will happen.

In his most recent dispatch, Alex says that it was a relatively quiet weekend in BC, where the teams spent the past few days preparing for the weather ahead. The forecast says that winds could be in excess of 100 kilometers per hour (62 mph), and as a result, they've been tying down the tents, and making sure all of their gear is properly secured. Those high winds are expected to last at least a couple of days as well, which means that there will be no attempt on the summit until things have died down.

In an earlier dispatch, the Polish team said that they didn't expect the weather to improve dramatically until the end of the month, which isn't until the middle of next week. If thats the case, the climbers will need to continue to be patient, while they look for a possible window ahead. They are looking to become the first to summit GI in winter, and they'll have until March 20th to actually complete that task. Ultimately, it will be the conditions at altitude that will decide whether or not they can achieve that goal.

I suspect that there won't be much to report from Gasherbrum I this week unless the weather does indeed take a turn for the better. Lets keep our fingers crossed for these men. I'd love to see them get a legitimate chance at the summit, but most of all, lets hope they all come home safely.

Winter Climb Update: Stuck In BC On GI

Now that most of the teams have left Pakistan for the season, all of the action is focused squarely on Gasherbrum I, where both the Polish squad and Alex and Carlos are hoping to make the first winter ascent of that 8080 meter (26,509 ft) mountain. The two teams have been working together over the past few weeks to fix lines and establish camps, but now they seem to be taking a different approach on how to proceed.

According to the latest dispatch from the Poles, they have now established Camp 3, finished acclimatizing, and have all of their gear in place to make a proper summit bid. There is just one problem however, and that is the weather. Conditions are not good on the mountain today, and the forecast says that it could be another seven days before things improve. Winds are predicted to top 100 km/h (62 mph) above 7000 meters (22,965 ft), which makes it impossible to climb above that height. The team is prepared to wait it out, but they now feel it could be the end of February before they can make a true attempt on the summit. Patience is most definitely the name of the game at the moment.

Meanwhile, Alex and Carlos indicated yesterday that they planned to climb up to Camp 1 today. That would take them up to 6200 meters (20,341 ft), well below the maelstrom of wind, where they'll apparently shuttle more gear in preparation for their own eventual summit bid. It appears they won't go any higher than C1 however, and my guess is that they'll be back in BC by tomorrow, and waiting along with their companions.

The reports from the winter climbs start to sound a bit like a broken record after awhile. It is all about the weather, which is always bad. There just seems to be widely varying degrees of bad.

Video: Winter Climbing On Gasherbrum I

In yesterday's winter climb update I shared a video from the Polish team currently on Gasherbrum I. Today we have one from Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez, the other team on that mountain. Each of these videos from Pakistan gives us a good indication of how challenging the climbs are on these big mountains and how the winter conditions only add to difficulty.

Winter Climb Update: Russians Off K2, Others Go Higher

It has been a busy few days in Pakistan, with plenty of activity over the weekend as the remaining teams continue to take advantage of what ever the weather will allow them. The big news is that the Russian team on K2 was evacuated late last week, as the weather cleared up long enough for three consecutive flights to and from Base Camp to retrieve the climbers, their gear, and of course the remains of Vitaly Gorelik, who succumbed to pneumonia last week. As of Friday, the entire squad was in Islamabad, and it is quite possible that they started their return journeys home over the weekend.

Over on Gasherbrum I, the teams took advantage of a weather window at the end of last week, and managed to fix lines up to C3. The Polish team reports reaching that point on Thursday, but were forced back down to BC by Saturday, as the forecast predicted bad weather for the next few days. It seems for now, they'll all sit and wait for an opportunity to go back up, although the climbers have been spending time at C2 as part of their normal acclimatization process. They also released the video clip below to show what life is life on a winter climb on GI.

Also on GI are Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez, who are back in BC as well after taking a turn fixing the ropes high on the mountain. They report extremely cold temperatures, even at the lower altitudes, and after spending a day filming in, and around, Base Camp, it took some time to thaw out in their tent. Alex says that they spotted a wild fox near camp, and he was struck by the grace and beauty of that animal, whose tracks they see every day, but seldom do they spot the animal itself. The the Poles, Alex and Carlos are waiting out the weather, hoping to get a chance to continue their ascent.

Finally, the situation is much the same for Simone Moro and Denis Urubko on Nanga Parbat, where the snow continues to fall. They've had steady snow for the past few days, and it has only added to the amount of powder on the mountain, which is already unsafe at higher altitudes. Avalanches are a real concern for the duo, who are being both patient and smart in their approach. For now, they wait for another chance at a summit bid, but the forecast is not particularly good. There is the potential for a window to open later in the week, and if it does, these two men will try to make the most of it.

Winter Climb Update: Details From K2

It continues to be along, challenging week in the Karakoram for the teams tackling 8000 meter peaks there. The weather has only improved marginally, but it has created a whole new set of problems for the climbers, who are struggling to get time at altitude and starting to watch the clock.

We'll start today's update on K2, where the Russian squad is still waiting for extraction of the team and gear. You'll no doubt recall that they aborted their expedition earlier in the week when team member Vitaly Gorelik passed away in Base Camp. The team leaders didn't go into detail on what exactly happened, but ExWeb got the scoop and posted the story earlier.

Apparently, Vitaly was part of a three-man group that was fixing lines above 7000 meters (22,965 ft) from January 28-31. When the bad weather set in, the entire team was forced back to BC, where it was determined that he had suffered frostbite on both hands while working at high altitude. Later, he was also diagnosed with pneumonia, and a helicopter was called to retrieve him. Unfortunately, the incredibly bad weather made it impossible for the medics to fly in and evacuate the ailing climber, and after two days of waiting, Vitaly had to be put on a respirator. He was still on that respirator when he died.

It's a sad story and sobering reminder of just how challenging and dangerous K2 can be in any season. During the winter, the "Savage Mountain" becomes even more brutal however, which is why it remains unclimbed during that season. The entire team did a great job of giving it a go, but I think we can all understand why they elected to come home.

Meanwhile, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to struggle on Nanga Parbat. After abandoning a summit bid earlier in the week, the duo are now worried about having to restart their acclimatization process after spending an extended stay in Base Camp. Worse yet, the heavy snow has covered their previous tracks, which means they'll be forced to break trail once again. To add insult to injury, more snow is projected over the next week, which will only add to the challenges. In fact, it has gotten so bad that the Polish team that they've been sharing BC with have decided to go home. It seems that they weren't able to even get much above Camp 1. We'll have to wait and see if Simone and Denis get a crack at the summit.

On Gasherbrum I, the weather has improved dramatically, which allowed the Polish team to go up to C1 yesterday, with Alex and Carlos following today. Alex claims that it is the warmest temperatures they've seen on the mountain yet, and they hope to take advantage of the break while they can. In fact, if they feel strong, they may continue up to Camp 2 tomorrow, as they continue their acclimatization process and shuttle gear up the hill.

It is starting to look pretty grim in the Karakoram. As usual, everything hinges on the weather.

Video: Climbing Gasherbrum I In Winter

So what's it like to climb an 8000 meter peak in winter? The video below will definitely provide some insights. This was released a few days back by the Polish team currently attempting the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I, an 8080 meter (26,509 ft) monster in Pakistan's Karakoram range. The team is currently in BC, where they are sitting out the bad weather, so presumably that gave them plenty of time to edit and upload this video.

I love the shot of the climber warming his feat by the gas cooking stove. I guess you get very creative in finding ways to stay warm.

Winter Climb Update: Summit Push Stalled On Nanga Parbat

While all the teams in the Karakoram deal with the news of the death of Vitaly Gorelik on K2, and the subsequent end to that expedition, most are continuing to go about the work necessary to give their expeditions a chance at claiming a winter summit.

Perhaps the hardest hit by the news of Vitaly's death was Denis Urubko, who was close friends with the Russian climber. Denis posted some thoughts on his fallen comrade on his blog today, which he had time to write thanks to an aborted summit push by him and climbing partner Simone Moro. The two men had hoped to begin the final stage of their climb yesterday, but they were unable to take advantage of a current weather window on Nanga Parbat due to deep snow and high levels of avalanche danger above Camp 1. Because of those conditions, the two have now descended back to Base Camp, where they'll wait for the snow to settle and another window to open.

Over on Gasherbrum I, Alex Txikon has aslo written about the loss of Vitaly and sent his condolences and respects along to the Russian team that is still there. He also reports extremely cold weather in GI Base Camp, with temperatures dropping below -30ºC/-22ºF. Winds are also extremely high and the generally poor weather conditions are keeping him, along with teammate Carlos Suarez, in BC at the moment. Presumably, the Polish team on that mountain is there as well, as they have not posted an update since last week.

Hopefully a break in the weather will come soon so these teams can get back to work and Denis and Simone can get a real crack at their summit. Stay tuned.

Winter Climb Update: Weather Thwarts Efforts In The Karakoram

These winter climbing updates are starting to sound a bit like a broken record. It comes as no surprise that the weather in the Karakoram is once again making life difficult on the teams there, and the forecast for the next few days doesn't look like it is going to improve any. High winds and cold temperatures have been the norm of course, but it looks like there may be more snow on the way as well, particularly at altitude. That will make things tough on the climbers, who are continuing to struggle with simply building their camps and fixing their lines at this point.

On K2, the Russians have now climbed as high as 7200 meters (23,622 ft) in their efforts to fix their ropes. They had hoped to establish Camp 3 at about 7000 meters (22,965 ft), but they still need to carve out a platform in the snow and ice to set up tents there. As a result, they now have lines in place, but no shelters erected just yet. Meanwhile, they've also continued to shuttle gear up to Camp 1 in preparation for the big push to come, but their latest dispatch says that all team members are currently in BC due to the weather taking a turn for the worse.

That same dispatch says that climber Vitaly Gorelik has gotten frostbite on fingers on both hands and is currently being treated for the condition by the team doctor. Expedition leader Victor Kozlov has called in an evacuation helicopter to pick him up, but the weather is currently not allowing for flights in or out of Base Camp. This is the second member of the team to suffer from frostbite that has needed to be evacuated from the mountain.

Meanwhile, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro have had to put their summit plans on halt on Nanga Parbat.  The weather forecast calls for very few days of good weather in the week ahead, and they need at least four or five days to make a legitimate summit bid in a safe fashion. The men are now in BC and waiting for their opportunity to go up, but in the days ahead the prediction is that winds above 8000 meters will be in excess of 140km/h (87 mph), which is obviously not safe for an approach to the summit. The boys did have cause for celebration however, as one year ago today they completed the first ever successful winter ascent in the Karakoram by topping out on Gasherbrum II. (Also, be sure to read ExWeb's interview with Denis found here.)

The Polish team on Gasherbrum I are hoping for similar success this year, and as of yesterday they've managed to establish their Camp 2 without any major problems. The climbers are currently taking turns in their acclimatization rotation, Surprisingly, they are reporting that the trek up to C2 is actually easier than going to Camp 1 at the moment. They expected to have all the climbers back in BC today however, as the bad weather sets in on their mountain as well. They expect the conditions to stay bad through the 7th or 8th of the month.

Finally, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez are basically in the same boat, since they are sharing BC with the Poles. They report going up as high as 6100 meters (20,013 ft) a few days back, but bad weather has now forced them down as well, so they sit and wait for an opportunity to keep working the route.

More to come soon, but for now, it seems that the weather will keep everyone stationary into next week.

Winter Climb Update: Evacuation On K2, C2 On Nanga Parbat

It has been a busy couple of days in Pakistan for the teams making winter ascents on the big peaks there. As is always the case, it is the weather that decides how much progress they can make and how much they'll suffer while doing it. For the teams on K2 and Nanga Parbat, it has now been a month since they arrived on the mountain, while over on Gasherbrum I, the teams are just starting to settle in.

The Russians on K2 were forced to evacuate a teammate yesterday when a helicopter dropped by BC to pick up Vladimir Belous, who was suffering from frostbite on several fingers. The team had hoped to send Belous out sooner, but bad weather prevented the helicopter from landing for a number of days, and as a result, Vladimir's fingers had to be treated on site. He has now been flown back to Skardu and will make his way to Islamabad, and then home to Moscow.

Meanwhile, the rest of his teammates have continued to work the route. Several climbers were above Camp 2 yesterday fixing ropes, but high winds forced them to retreat all the way back down to Base Camp. The skies have cleared there however, which brought some sun at last, but the high winds and cold temperatures are expected to continue. The mercury has been hovering around -37ºC/-34ºF for the past few days.

On Nanga Parbat, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro have resumed climbing and went up to Camp 2, located at 5000 meters (16,404 ft) yesterday. After taking three days of rest, the two men are feeling re-engergized and ready to climb, and while they were accompanied by three others on their way up to C1, they are now in Camp 2 all by themselves. No word yet if they'll go any higher or if this is just the next round of their acclimatization process.

The Polish Team on Gasherbrum I is getting settled in and preparing to move up the mountain. They arrived in BC over the weekend, and have been busy getting their camp established ever since.  They did find time to post an excellent image gallery online, which you can check out here. The photos give you a good sense of what life is like in Base Camp on one of these big mountains. Look for the team to start working their way up to Camp 1 in the next day or two.

Finally, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez are also in BC on GI and have reportedly started working the route themselves. The two men took their turn fixing the lines yesterday, so progress has started towards C1, and it appears that there is a good sense of cooperation between them and the Poles. Alex and Carlos are also working hard to establish their Internet connection from the mountain as well, as they have plenty of photos, and hopefully video, to share with the rest of us following along back home.

Good luck to all of the climbers as they continue to challenge these monsters of the Karakoram in the days and weeks ahead.