HIMAPALA UNESA

Himapala Unesa adalah organisasi bergerak di bidang outdoorsport dan sosial.

ORGANISASI

Proin luctus placerat arcu, eget vehicula metus rhoncus ut. Fusce pharetra pharetra venenatis. Sed condimentum ornare ipsum.

Maecenas nisl est

Vestibulum suscipit ullamcorper bibendum. Nam quis commodo ligula. Etiam et mi et magna molestie iaculis.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet

Duis fermentum sem nec ipsum lacinia fermentum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.

Popular Posts

Blog Archive

Sample Text

Velvet Antlers day (again)

Today was a day of watching blizzards outside while bashing the keyboard doing shed loads of work on Claire's Velvet Antlers site. Fourteen hours later and I got all the Valentines and Easter hampers uploaded and hopefully sorted the site out for ranking in google better. It's weird to think just how much Google matters in so many aspects of life these days. Scary, I suppose, too.
Still, It's been exciting to see my tweaks on Velvet Antlers give a steady climb up the rankings. Early days yet. Come on googlebot, hurry up!!!
The next two days I'm at the Ice Factor coaching, and then hopefully out for a play in the snow??

Training resumes in earnest

Claire recovers from an ice bashing session in the ice factor fridge. She is learning to ice climb for some activities we have planned...


A week of rest and treatment for a developing injury in my finger seems to have worked really well and training resumed with a vengeance this week after I got home from lecturing and coaching in Devon.
It felt really good to be training, like REALLY good. For sure it's like a drug sometimes, and I love it. I felt strong, healthy and psyched to be pulling really hard on small holds again. Unfortunately the inactivity last week has meant I have gained a little weight which I will have to reverse. That is quite a bummer seeing as Claire just made a batch of the legendary iced gingerbread (she blogged the recipe here).
A pleasingly large amount of it was responsible for fuelling the attempts on Ring of Steal during the summer, but then we were spending 8 hours a day at the crag. It doesn't work so well when you are spending 14 hours a day in front of a computer screen and only 2 hours hanging from your fingers.
Nevermind, in three days I have some time off work, and its snowing outside right now...

Fresh Snow this morning



Fresh snow falling today on Ben Nevis after a week of thaws. Don't worry another thaw is coming tomorrow : (

Recovery/research time

Last week I picked up a wee injury while training my fingers like there was no tomorrow. It was probably down to the fact that it already was tomorrow as most of my fingerboarding sessions were at about 2am when I was not at my sharpest. Just a niggle though I’m hoping and it seems to be ok after a bit of cold water and a long warm up.

Claire and I just had a jetset trip to Birmingham where I was coaching and lecturing. It is always a full on experience meeting psyched climbers back to back all day long. Very energising and great fun. The amount of energy expended during the day only hits you about three hours after lecturing as you drift into a sleep where you can literally feel your muscles recovering from the training. 7 hours continuous coaching followed by a 60 minute lecture is good training for the voice too! I blogged some general thoughts about technique coaching on my online climbing coach blog here.

Now I’m home and taking a couple of days rest this buys me much needed time to do all the research I need to prepare for my work in 2008. Yes I know it’s 2008 already, but I am rarely on schedule. I am learning all about film and publishing, and finalising plans to do some!

9b, the new 8a?

It's not hard to see that the internet is changing pretty fast. These days a lots of folks are using facebook instead of email to keep in online contact with other folks. But is it just me that finds facebook a bit of a pain to use at times?

I got an email yesterday inviting me to join a new social network site thats just geared towards climbers called 9b

It's quite similar to facebook, but i seems like potentially a nice aggregator of of climbing info and youtube videos of climbing. Good aggregation of stuff you want to see is the way forward on the web these days. Any site that does it really well is going to be big.

Maybe this one will do well, or maybe someone psyched will think of and even better way?

I hated school

I nearly got kicked out of school at 16 for truancy. I went to Dumbarton Rock and read for my exams near the end of term, in my bedroom. I stuck it out (just) and decided to keep going. I wish I had left earlier.

I don’t know if it’s the same everywhere, but the school system I experienced revolved around a very dangerous and wasteful system of dumbing everything, and ultimately, everyone down to conform and produce a predetermined product or result. The problem comes in that young people are people, not ticks in boxes.

It seems ironic, but the reason underlying my truancy (climbing) was the driving force behind my education. But it was stifled.

The ideals of school were ‘average is good’ and ‘different is bad’. They reasoned that if I wanted to do things a bit differently, then all the kids might expect to be able to do the same! God forbid. I certainly don’t have any easy answers for exactly how it should have been. Sure, it isn’t easy to educate a huge amount of young people with little resources. But here are some thoughts from my experience.

Before I found a focus, I was in the same situation as many kids. I went to school and sat in classes where teachers spent a big proportion of the time keeping order and not developing interest. I didn’t enjoy it, and even as a kid I could recognise there was much time being wasted.

Once I started climbing, and began skipping school, I was the opposite from a draw on resources. I learned by myself, eagerly. Where before it took teacher time and resources to force feed me learning, now I took it in as fast as I could with no additional help at all. In an ideal situation, school should have been a place that focused this energy, and facilitated even faster, deeper and broader learning. But my teachers were too busy trying to get me to fit the straightjacket to get near this opportunity.

That’s not so much of an indictment as a sympathy vote for teachers.

The solution for youngsters – skip school and go climbing? Of course not! Try lots of things and find something that makes you want to stay up at night and read about video compression algorithms for whatever you want to shoot and get on youtube or something, or training for climbing, or… – whatever it is, it doesn’t matter. If you can find the psyche, you will need the skills. Like pure magic, gaining them won’t feel like chores anymore. But until you do find that passion about something, keep turning up…

NB: When I use the word ‘passion’ to describe a level of psyche, I mean a level of commitment that makes a lot of the people around you think you are pretty strange. A level of psyche that makes you think this is normal behaviour.

The solution for teachers? Find a way to communicate the power of the ideas, rather than force feed the detail of a world youngsters can’t connect easily to. It is possible, even within the constraints of ‘the system’. If you don’t dig deeper to find a way to achieve it, who will?

'Londonstani'

Hey guys,

Apologies if you are already aware of this novel and it's potential for the Language student, I've only just 'discovered' it, and have literally just come back from a seminar where the author himself (Gautam Malkani) has been talking about the book. Even if you are aware of this novel, perhaps my ramblings will be useful anyway, if not to shed some light on what Gautam must have been thinking to write this work.

To give some background, 'Londonstani' is a novel about a group of Asian middle class boys who are part of the nineties 'desi' culture [I think!] They are a sort of a gang who are trying to please their parents at home whist maintaining their tough-boy attitude to their peers.

[In this way the novel is comparable to the novels of black writers Alex Wheattle and Courttia Newland-'East of Acre Lane'-see Biscuit struggling to tide things over at home- and 'The Scholar' -see Cory trying to protect Sonia from knowing what's going on with Sean-]

Amongst all this, the teenagers find their own take on religious racism and ethnic issues that prove interesting, but for Gautam Malkani the book has an essentially class focus. The plot is an especially recommended one on account of the controversial twist it has at the end [one I wish I could tell you but would completely spoil the book if you read it!] The rest is, at it's simplest, an Asian's take on growing up in Hounslow and what it means to be a man in light of your culture, religion and race.

Before I continue, it has to be said that this is no Asian ghetto story, and the author admits and prides the novel on that, he focuses on the superficial persona of thug/gangster and how it aids and hinders middle class youth at the time he is writing about (90s.) In this way, it is somewhat different to those texts by black writers I mentioned before- NOT that I'm trying to make out that Brickie or West London are ghettos! I hope you understand what I mean and choose to move on..

Background roughly completed, to us linguists (or linguistic enthusiast in my case,) it is important A- how this text came about and B- that the characters talk in a mixture of slang.

The language used by the characters contains a high percentage of swearing, some urban London/street lexis, some Pakistani and other Asian words from different regions that I now can't remember and haven't seemed to have documented in my notes.. never mind. I thought this interesting in comparison to the MEYD studies and the latest work by Ben Rampton on the 'new' language of Asian teens today:
  • Rampton, Ben, Language in Late Modernity: Interaction in an Urban School, (Cambridge, 2006) )[this book is EXCELLENT but don't read it all in one go.]
And also his 'Crossing' book where it goes into more detail:
  • Rampton, Ben, Crossing: Language and Ethnicity Among Adolescents, (London and New York, 1995 [you can find this in SFX library]

I obviously haven't studied into this area but for those of you interested in this type of speech I think 'Londonstani' has great potential here that could enhance and complicate Language A Level work.
More generally (in relation to linguistics), the fact that this book resulted from socially scientific research I think is interesting, as we can compare the way he attained his data to the way in which samples are taken for linguistic studies and the various methodologies used. [The differences noted by comparing his methodology to yours for example, may help you in tailoring to the concerns of your argument/research.] The author explained that the criteria he had to follow in order to make his data usable is distinctly different to that of linguistics, but I couldn't help but draw parallel.
To again take a step contextually outward, Gautam Malkani's novel came from an interest he pursued whilst at university in Cambridge [boo..] where he studied SPS (Social and Political Sciences) [again, boo..] and wrote a dissertation in his final year about the use of the term 'coconut' and the gender issues surrounding teenagers (especially 16-17 yr old Asian males.) He was selective in his sample groups, making sure that he has a mix of ethnicities [but at the same time the contacts he named on interrogation suggest to me that he had more Asian participants than others], and, like a linguist, went into 6th form common rooms with tape-recorders to talk to people. He also separated males and females somehow, but admits that his most useful data was gained on receiving information from the mixed groups.
Some of the research he came across on his way seems of particularly useful for those of you interested in the re appropriation of the N-word, as he compares this to the attempted re appropriation of the P-word: 'Paki'. Debate ensued about this between Commonwealth lecturer Priya' Gopal (Cambridge) and the author on this, with the latter stating enthusiastically that the P-word could never have the same effect as the N-word with the black community because: 'there are too many divisions in the Asian community' for this to occur, and the author arguing that the low-nil political consciousness of youth culture resulted in this failure to ameliorate the word, as well as his belief that fears of emasculation and not-being-man-enough on-the-streets was and is the more pressing issue underlying the issue. I thought this was worth noting. There is a quote I'd love to use to exemplify this issue in the book but since I feel bad about copyright issues I'll let you try and find it amongst the extract given in the following link: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5590750
The extract really speaks for itself and so I'll refrain from my rambling on and end here. I hope the points raised by my seminar that I found useful will also prove useful for you, or at least were as interesting to you as they were for me.
P.S, for those of you who don't mind admitting that at the heart of things superficial things do matter, the author, is, quite hot.

I found what I was looking for (I think?)

Today I went for an extended stroll in Glen Nevis with the Watson, after our arms faded on the Heather hat projects. John had explored the hillside before and wanted to show me a roof he thought might, maybe, possibly could be climbable. The whites of my eyes were showing as we approached. It looked fantastic. Indeed it might be too hard. But for sure I will spending a lot of springtime on this boulder, and a hard headpoint route I discovered nearby. Right now my list of boulder projects in the glen gets longer. But it’s a real psyche to find an uber hard one that looks only just possible.

The past weeks have been spent doing many deadhangs and pull-ups, with some gains in strength to show for it. Looking at these roofs made me feel weak again.

That was exactly what I needed.


See you in Birmingham or The Mill

Tomorrow we leave to travel south to coach climbing at the Creation centre in Birmingham and give a lecture on Friday (18th). There is still some space on the coaching clinics and the lecture is at 8pm. I’ll be talking about dangerous trad routes and perspectives on dangerous undertakings in general.

The following week (26th) I’m at the Mill in Devon coaching and giving a lecture in the evening. The details are here

See you there if you can make it along

Winter sun on the Buachaille

Saturday was a perfect day to be in the Scottish mountains; clear, snowy and windless. After working through Christmas I figured I could manage a days climbing and headed up the Coe to go and do Cubby’s big route Guerdon Grooves.

Everything seemed good, but as I started up the first pitch I quickly realised that underneath the insulation of snow water was running and the turf was not even pretending to be frozen. So I climbed down and we made do with a nice day outside and went home for tea and pull ups. Next time.

Entering Great Gully at first light

A large chunk of ice with a mossy hat that formerly resided halfway up the first pitch of Guerdon groove. The unfrozen moss was holding the ice onto the cliff, but seemed unwilling to support the additional weight of Macleod plus rack.

Kev Shields dondering down towards Alltnafeadh.


Ben Nevis looking good

New words Australian style

According to the BBC news website, the Australian Macquarie Dictionary is running an online vote to decide Australia's word of the year for 2007. As with many of these articles about new words, there's a novelty element to the coverage, with lots of silly words that are hardly ever used making headlines but as always it gives us material to look at for ENA5 and Language Change. And this time there's a little Haribo competition for you, to encourage you to be interactive.

So, some of the words up for nomination are listed below and I'd like you to describe the word formation process/processes (eg blending, affixation, semantic shift, borrowing etc.) at work with each word and post them as comments below. The person with the most correct answers receives a large bag of Haribo.

1. Floordrobe
2. Tanorexia
3. Griefer
4. Kippers
5. Man Flu
6. Baile funk
7. Exergaming
8. Cyberathlete

Useful for:
ENA5 - Contemporary Language Change

The A to Y of teen slang (continued)

There's more on the teen slang dictionary of 13 year old Lucy van Amerongen including the revelation that she's a pupil of Cheltenham Ladies College, an exclusive private school in... err Cheltenham, so the closest she's ever been to the ghetto would have been when she sent her chauffeur out to score her some KFC. But it would be cruel and bitter to pick on a 13 year old girl who's got a publishing deal with a bigger advance than I'll ever see, so I won't.

Here's what The Telegraph and its readers thinks about it all. And here's the same story covered in The Times too and comment from some 15 year olds on the slang featured.

The A to Y of teen slang

Today's Daily Mirror has a story about a teenager who has published her own dictionary of teen slang, selling 3000 copies through high street retailers. The Mirror has helpfully published examples of A (Antwacky) to Y (Yoot) but seems stuck with the letter Z - any ideas?

This isn't the first attempt to produce a guide to slang - there are loads about - but this one seems to be specifically aimed at parents in an attempt, the author Lucy van Amerongen says, to help them decode their children's language. But some slang tends to change so rapidly that any guide is bound to contain some already obsolete terms by the time it appears in shops.

There are also some interesting varieties of definitions for some slang terms, many of which might be regional in origin. For example gash is defined as ugly or unpleasant, but in south London usage it usually refers to girls. Shizzle is defined as someone you worship, which might derive from its origins in Bay Area rap as slang for shit (the shit = the best stuff, a weird example of flipping or amelioration, like wicked, sick and bad changing from their original meanings to become terms of approval).

Later this term, I'll be setting up a detailed online slang questionnaire to find out what particular expressions mean in different areas of the country and I'd like your help to complete it, but in the meantime, here are some slang terms I'd like you to help define. If you have a definition, please add it as a comment but please also include the area you're from, so we can get some idea of the geographical spread. Ideally, please add a brief example of how you would use it (eg Butters = ugly as in "that boy is butters").

Slang terms:

swag
bare
merk/murk
hench
nang
prang
peng
air
sick
road

Useful for:
ENA5 - Language Change

Rediscovering the Glen

I’ve been getting excited about some bouldering projects in Glen Nevis right now. On the Heather Hat boulder I’d always looked at the nice line of slopers coming out of the right side of the roof. Years ago I’d climbed through the first rail and reached out to the lip. This time I managed it a bit more direct, throwing at an incut jug and taking the swing one handed with a staved thumb as the consequence of just not letting go. About Font 7c.

Now the challenge is to stick to the slopes all the way out. Seems like an 8a or 8a+ challenge right now but I still can’t complete one desperate pinching move in the roof. I’ve also been trying to leap horizontally for the good rail in the middle of the roof, at an even harder grade I suspect. Success on this will require the ability to do a dynamic one-armer whilst your body swings past underneath.

In between throwing myself across the roof I’ve been back beavering away researching for various projects for 2008. Lots of new things to learn.

Hey and as we start 2008 I should say thanks for coming to visit here in the past year. I’ll try my best to make this blog bigger and better again in 2008.

Claire's icy pics

Claire took some nice pictures of the deep frost that kept us somewhat chilly last week in Lochaber. There are some ore nice pics of the river Nevis frozen over on her blog.