More Pre-Everest Posts From Alan Arnette

A few weeks back I mentioned that Alan Arnette had already started his always great coverage of the Mt. Everest climbing season by posting several stories to his blog. Since that time, he has added more great posts that will help to get us all ready for the spring, when most of the action takes place on the world's tallest mountain.

One of the posts that I think will be of particular interest is Alan's look at Lhotse, the mountain right next door to Everest. Just how close are these two? Climbers going to the summit of either mountain share campsites all the way up to C4, where they then go different directions toward their respective summits. The climb to the top of Lhotse isn't nearly as crowded as Everest, and it is roughly 333 meters (1095 ft) lower, but it also presents some technical challenges that aren't an issue on its taller neighbor. Alan breaks down the differences and discusses the climbs very nicely.

When you're done reading about Lhotse, be sure to move on to Alan's profile of an Everest Sherpa. If you know anything about climbing in the High Himalaya, you know that almost no one would summit without the help of their Sherpa guides. They are a tough, strong, group of people and it is clear that Alan respects them very much.

Finally, check out this interview with Cian O'Brolchain, a former professional tennis player from Ireland, who has set his sights on Everest this season. Cian is climbing to raise awareness of Cystic Fibrosis, and doesn't have a lot of climbing experience under his belt. That said, he has already topped out on Cho Oyu, and seems determined to go even higher this spring. He and Alan discuss his mountaineering experiences so far and what he brings along with him from the world of competitive tennis that can aid in his mission.

As usual, these are all excellent reads and are setting us up nicely for the action that will be coming later in the spring. As the Antarctic season winds down, and the winter climbs come to a close, we'll be transitioning over to Everest, and the rest of the Himalaya, where there will be plenty of drama once again.

Video: Winter Climb On Arrigetch Peak In Alaska

While we're in the mood for climbing videos today, check out this one, which documents a winter climb of Arrigetch Peak in Alaska along a new 5.11+ route. That mountain falls inside the Brooks Range, above the Arctic Circle no less, which would make it a challenge to climb in any season, let alone the dead of the Alaskan winter.

The short film follows climbers Tommy Caldwell, Hayden Kennedy, and Corey Rich as they ski to the mountain, then proceed up a 1300-foot route. It is quite a challenge and quite an adventure. Looks like they had a great time doing it too!



Deep North: A Trip to the Arrigetch Peaks from Deep Roots Media - Dane Henry on Vimeo.

Video: Opening A New Route In The Alps

Last fall, mountaineer Herve Barmasse, along with his father Marco, opened a new route along the South-East face of Monte Rosa in Italy. The climb featured just about every kind of challenge you could imagine, mixing rock, ice, and snow in equal measures. The video below gives us a glimpse of that climb and the beautiful mountain itself, and serves as a great reminder of why the Alps are such an amazing place for mountaineers to explore, even in this day and age.

Barefoot Climbers Summit Kilimanjaro

Remember those crazy trekkers that I told you about a few weeks back who wanted to go up Kilimanjaro barefooted? Last weekend they actually accomplished their goal, standing on the summit of the 5895 meter (19,340 ft) peak, without any kind of protection on their feet. On the way to the top, they braved cold temperatures, plenty of snow, and lots of sharp, loose rocks, and yet they still managed to make it without shoes.

The team actually topped out on Saturday, although it wasn't easy. When they set out from the Kibo Huts that morning, the temperature was below zero (presumably Celsius) and they still had to traverse plenty of loose scree. It took them about 4.5 hours to reach Gilman's Point, and along the way they encountered several climbers who had turned back from the summit, and were clearly suffering from altitude sickness. That was a sobering experience for the entire crew, but they continued on to the top none the less.

As they approached the summit they faced plenty of snow as well. More than two feet has fallen just a few days earlier, and walking the final few hundred feet without shoes, in snow, was yet one more challenge to overcome. But in the end, they stood on top, which is pretty amazing to me. I can barely walk across smooth pavement without shoes on.

You can read more about their experience on their website – barefootimpi.org – which includes their reports from the field and photos from the climb. Remember, they undertook this journey to raise funds for the Red Cross Children's Hospital in Cape Town, South Africa as well, so it was once again an adventure for a good cause.

Congrats to the whole team on a job well done.

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Nat Geo Adventure Reports On The Bolt Removal On The Compressor Route

If you've been following climbing news over the past few weeks, you've probably already heard about the bold climb of Cerro Torre by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy. The mountain, which is amongst the more famous in the world, has a lot of history to it, and these two young men were able to nab the first ascent, by "fair means," along its Southeast Ridge. That "fair means' qualifier is an important one along that route, and what the climbers did after their summit has reverberated through the climbing community and left a more lasting impact than their successful climb itself.

Standing just 3127 meters (10,262 ft) in height, Cerro Torre, located in Patagonia, is not known for its altitude. Instead, it is the incredible technical difficulty of the climb that is the draw. Back in the late 50's the towering rock spire was the subject of intense scrutiny by some of the best climbers of the day, including Walter Bonatti, who failed to scale its walls in 1958. A year later, rival Cesare Maestri went to Cerro Torre and claimed that he, and climbing partner Toni Egger, reached the top, but that on their descent, Egger was swept off the mountain by an avalanche, taking their camera, and summit evidence, with him. The climbing community of the day took Maestri at his word, and celebrated the accomplishment of a mountain that was previously deemed unclimbable.

In the subsequent years, Maestri's story fell under extreme scrutiny, and over time, the community changed its tune. Critics accused him of orchestrating a hoax, and the Italian fell out of favor with many. In an effort to reclaim his damaged reputation, Maestri returned to Cerro Torre in 1970 in an attempt to go back up the route that he climbed a decade earlier. But instead of climbing it using the regular equipment and techniques of the day, he used a gas-powered air compressor to blast bolts into the rock face, something that had never been done before. Using more than 400 bolts, Maestri proceeded up the mountain, building bolt ladders all the way, but even using that technique, he stopped short of the summit due to a large ice cornice at the top. That didn't stop him from declaring it as the second successful summit however, and he left his air compressor in place as one final insult, earning it the moniker of The Compressor Route.

When Kruk and Kennedy finished their climb back on January 16, they took advantage of the unusually good weather to do a little clean-up on the Compressor Roue. The two men removed more than 125 bolts from the wall, which had been in place since Maestri had left them there back in 1970. The removal of those bolts cleared out the route, making it a more naturally challenging ascent once again, but it set off quite a debate in the climbing community once again, as people argued whether or not the bolt removal was the right thing to do.

National Geographic Adventure has a much more in depth, and better, story on the entire affair, including the history of Cerro Torre and the reaction, both good and bad, to this most recent ascent. It is an all around good read and definitely worth a look if you're interested in climbing history and the politics that can be associated with it. You can read the entire story by clicking here.

Winter Climb Update: C3 On K2 And Nanga Parbat

It was a busy weekend in the Karakoram, where the teams are diligently and methodically going about their work as they prepare to climb some of the toughest mountains imaginable. The weather across the region has remained windy, but mostly dry, although the forecast says that is about to change, with plenty of snowfall set to hit after the first of February.

On K2, the Russian team has been fixing lines above Camp 2 and have now reached 7000 meters (22,965 ft) in altitude. The climbers continue to shuttle gear up to their higher camps, including an Olympic flag that they hope to take to the summit in celebration of the 2014 Winter Games which will be held in Sochi, Russia. If all goes according to plan, the team should locate a spot for Camp 3 today and start caching supplies at that location for the eventual summit push to come.

Meanwhile, over on Nanga Parbat, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro climbed up to Camp 3 on that mountain over the weekend and are now back in Base Camp deciding on their next move. If they are feeling strong and ready, they may be watching for a weather window that could allow them access to the summit, but more likely they'll be heading up one more time to build out their Camp 4 before making a summit bid. Wondering what it is like on Nanga in winter? Check out the great video dispatch from the team below.

The Polish team on Gasherbrum I are making steady progress. After establishing Camp 1 last Friday, the squad spent the weekend shuttling gear up to that location, while also scouting the route up to Camp 2 as well. They report little to no snowfall on the mountain, but temperatures in BC were hovering around -20ºC/-4ºF, with obviously colder temps further up the slopes.

Alson on GI are Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez, who have been fixing ropes up to Camp 1 as well. According to their dispatch yesterday, they ran out of rope on the way to C1, and as a result, fell short by about 100 feet. The two men returned to BC, where they climbed into their sleeping bags out of pure exhaustion. They'll be heading back up today or tomorrow to finish their work and shuttle the first round of gear to the camp.

If the weather does indeed take a turn for the worse over the next few days, life is going to get even more challenging for these teams. Hopefully they'll all stay safe and continue to make good progress.

Antarctica 2011: Still Waiting For A Lift

The Antarctic season was suppose to be all but over by now, but bad weather is keeping ALE's planes grounded in Punta Arenas and leaving the last of the explorers stranded out on the ice. That meant that Cas and Jonesy, along with Aleksander Gamme, had to spend the weekend at the Union Glacier camp, where they at least had the opportunity to enjoy a few creature comforts while they wait for their lift home.

Union Glacier is actually the site of ALE's base of operations on the continent, and as a result, there is a small, but busting community there this time of year. That meant that not only did the boys receive a hot shower, they're also getting better meals and warmer tents to stay in. All that said, they are anxious to start their journey for home, but the next attempt at picking them up won't come until tomorrow, January 31st. If conditions improve, they should be on their way back to Chile at that point, then home to Australia and Norway shortly there after.

As you can imagine, it has been a huge relief for the three men to have completed their individual expeditions. No one has ever skied from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole, and back again, completely unsupported. But now, both Cas and Jonesy and Aleksander have made that journey. It wasn't easy, and they suffered greatly at times, but now it is done and they all have a huge sense of satisfaction over having  reached their goal.

Once they do leave the Antarctic, there will be just one team remaining. Kite-skiers Dixie Dansercoer and Sam Deltour have now been out on the ice for 70 days and are still going strong. Today they have established a new record for covering the most distance on a non-motorized, unsupported expedition across Antarctic. Dixie and Sam have now traveled 4829km (3000 miles), and they aren't done yet. They plan to keep skiing for a few more weeks, well into February, before calling it quits and heading home. That means they not only meant to break the record (set by Norwegian Rune Gjeldnes in 2006), they want to set a new one that will be almost completely out of reach. Considering they're knocking off more than 100km (62 miles) per day, that shouldn't be a problem for them.

I'll continue to post updates on Dixie and Sam's progress until they're done. The season is almost over, but they intend to drag it out for a bit longer.

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Video: Mixed Climbing With Sam Elias

Looking for a little inspiration for your upcoming weekend? Then look no further than this video, which features climber, and North Face athlete, Sam Elias, working a mixed route of rock, snow, and ice in Vail Pass. The route, which goes by the name of "Red Bull and Vodka," rises 120 feet and finishes off on The Fang, one of the toughest ice climbs around.


SAM ELIAS/ MIXED CLIMBING/ RED BULL AND VODKA M11 from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

Himalayan Stove Project Looks To Improve Environment and Health

If you've ever traveled through the Himalaya and spent some time in the tiny mountain villages that dot the landscape, you've probably observed the simple lifestyle of the people that live there. Most of those towns have little in the way of modern conveniences and the villagers tend to make do with the same basic equipment that has been with them their entire lives. Take for example the stoves they use to heat their homes. Most are simple and inefficient, and often use yak dung for fuel. Those same stoves are awful for the health of those that use them, often giving off dangerous smoke and fumes that can cause all kinds of health issues.

The Himalayan Stove Project looks to address all of these concerns and then some. It is an ambitious venture that has been put together by adventurer and explorer George Basch, who calls himself the "Chief Cook" of the project. Over the next five years, George hopes to distribute 10,000 new, clean, cookstoves across the Himalaya, simultaneously improving the lives of those who live there, while consuming far less fuel.

The HSP accepts donations through their website, which do directly toward buying and distributing the stoves. The organization is designed to be very efficient, with low overhead, and all of the staff are volunteers who pay their own travel expenses. Additionally, I love that they have a concrete and attainable plan for improving the lives of the people they are trying to help. I'm told that the first 1500+ stoves are en route to Kathmandu at this very moment, and George and his crew will begin giving them out this spring.

Personally, I think this is a great project. The stoves that I saw while in the Khumbu last year were mostly outdated and were definitely inefficient. On top of that, anyone who has ever had the privilege of enjoying the smell of burning yak dung knows how useful these new stoves will be. The Himalayan Stove Project looks to be quite an undertaking, and I wish them the best of luck in reaching their goals.

Winter Climb Update: Denis and Simone In C3 On Nanga Parbat

There hasn't been much in the way of updates from Pakistan the past few days. We can only assume that work is progressing as needed on K2 and Gasherbrum I, where teams are hoping to make the first winter ascent of those giants of the Karakoram. We did receive word from Simone Moro and Denis Urubko yesterday however, and things are progressing nicely for them on Nanga Parbat.

After spending a few days resting in Base Camp, Simone and Denis started up the mountain a few days back amidst high winds and blowing snow. But now, the weather has taken a turn for the better and they have continued to go higher to take advantage of the window that has come their way. Yesterday, the two men climbed to Camp 3 at 6600 meters (21,653 ft), where they spent the night as part of their regular acclimatization process. They also noted that if the weather held today they hoped to climb up to 7100 meters (23,293 ft), or higher, before proceeding back to BC to rest. If they hit that mark, they'll pretty much have completed the acclimatization phase and they may start to look for a weather window that will allow them to go to the summit.

If the men are feeling strong and rested, and the weather affords them the opportunity, they could conceivably start the summit push sometime next week. That seems ambitious, but possible at this point and it will all come down to how strong they feel after completing this rotation. They may decide to do one more acclimatization round first, but as we all know, winter weather windows in the Karakoram are few and far between, so as usual, the weather will likely dictate what happens.

Stay tuned. I'm sure we'll get further updates from K2 and GI next week.

Video: Patagonia Timelapse Is Simply Beautiful

These timelapse videos just keep getting more and more beautiful. Earlier this week we had those amazing views of Yosemite and now we have this one, which was captured in Argentina's Patagonia region. This is simply one of the most stunning landscapes on the planet and it is captured very well here. Sit back and be mesmerized.


PATAGONIA - ARGENTINA - TIMELAPSES from Ignacio Leonardi on Vimeo.

Antarctica 2011: Waiting For The Last Plane Out

Yesterday I posted the news that Cas and Jonesy had arrived back at Hercules Inlet, very tired and sore, but happy to have completed their long journey at last. There still hasn't been much news from Antarctica regarding what it was like for them to finish the expedition, but according to their Twitter feed, they are definitely eager to get a hot shower and a comfortable bed.

Presently, the boys are still sitting at Hercules, waiting for the last plane to arrive. Bad weather, particularly high winds, are keeping that flight grounded for now and there is no word on when it might arrive to pick them up. That means another potential night in the tent, which after three months out on the ice, has to be getting old. I imagine at this point they are ready for their adventure to be done and get back to some of the comforts of life for awhile.

Judging from their tweets, the two Aussies are in good spirits, although extremely tired and sore. They've just spent 89 days traveling to and from the South Pole, covering 2270km (1410 miles) in the process. They've also become the first people, along with Norwegian Aleksander Gamme, to go from Hercules to the South Pole and back, completely unsupported. That is an impressive accomplishment to say the least, and they are deserving of some R and R in their near future. Hopefully the weather will cooperate soon, and they can begin their journey home.

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Antarctica 2011: Cas, Jonesy, and Aleks Are Done!

Just a very brief update on the story I posted earlier today, in which I noted that Cas and Jonesy were on the home stretch of their expedition to the South Pole and back from Hercules Inlet. A short time ago, the support team for the two Aussies tweeted out the message: "@casandjonesy have completed their world first rek across the ice! What aussie heros!"

Other than that, there aren't a lot of details yet. We do know that Aleksander Gamme was waiting for them about 1km from the finish, so presumably the three men arrived at Hercules together. I'm sure we'll get a lot more information tomorrow or in the days ahead, but know that they are safe and sound at the finish line and that they made it with time to spare. The last plane out of Antarctica is scheduled for tomorrow, which means they weren't even rushed!

A huge congratulations to Cas, Jonesy and Aleksander on an amazing job. You three are very inspirational, and I know that you had to over come some major hurdles and challenges to accomplish your goals. It has been a real pleasure to follow along with you on this adventure. Now get some food and rest and start dreaming about warm beaches. I'm sure you're more than ready.

Video: The World Is Where We Live

I'm going to let this beautiful video speak for itself. It says a lot without saying much at all.



The world is where we live from WWF on Vimeo.

Explorers Club Member Blogs On Controversy Once Again

A few days ago I shared a link to Greg Bledsoe's blog, in which he wrote about the on going controversy at the Explorers Club. Greg happens to be a member of the EC, and in that post he wrote about his concerns with the way the leadership of the organization was handling some internal disputes amongst members.

Today, Greg follows up that story with another post, this time sharing more details of what is happening inside the EC, including some memos that were sent internally regarding the situation. This second post, which you can read here, offers some insights into why ten  members of the prestigious Flag and Honors Committee resigned last month in a dispute that started when President Lorie Karnath, and some of her close confidants, nominated certain people for awards from the EC. The committee didn't find some of those nominees met their standards, and rejected them as award winners, which set off a whole string of events that questioned the integrity of some of the people at the very top of the organization.

If you've been following this controversy, you'll definitely want to read Greg's post. There isn't anything in it that I hadn't already been told, but I was reluctant to post some of the details because I'm not a member of the club. He spells out exactly what caused the friction with the Flag & Honors Committee, and why those ten people took a stand against Karnath, and were then summarily dismissed without having an opportunity to express their grievances to the Board of Directors.

I know some readers have wondered why this is a big story and deserves on going coverage and to that I would say that the Explorers Club is a venerable and honorable organization whose history dates back more than a century. It has had some very impressive members over the years and has long held an important place in the annuals of exploration and adventure. On top of that, a number of members of the club read this blog and I've heard from many of them that they are happy that this story is getting told. There is a crisis of leadership with in the EC at the moment, and some of the members are fighting to maintain the reputation and history of the organization, which they feel is in jeopardy because of how the club is currently being run. Because of that, I think this is a story of note to the broader adventure community as well.

Antarctica 2011: Cas and Jonesy On The Home Stretch!

It has been one very long, and grueling, Antarctic season for James Castrission and Justin Jones, aka Cas and Jonesy. The lads have been out on the ice for three straight months in their attempt to ski unsupported from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole and back – something that has never been done before. But today they are in the home stretch, and if everything goes as planned, they should arrive back at the start sometime tonight.

As of this writing, the boys have just 14km (8.6 miles) to go until they reach Hercules, where they'll find Aleksander Gamme waiting for them. Aleksander is making the same journey, although he was going solo, and as he neared the finish line, the Norwegian elected to hold up and wait for his Australian counterparts to join him. The three men will then ski the final kilometer to the Inlet together, effectively becoming the first to accomplish this epic journey at the same time.

This morning, before they set out, the two Aussies tweeted out "We are just now stepping off for hopefully the final time! Bring on the finish line!" I'm sure they are are more than ready to be done, as they have had to endure horrible weather, nagging injuries, illness, and more. But now they're about to accomplish something that will make all of those memories fade and make them feel a whole lot better.

Stay tuned for the news of their arrival.

Video: Snow Day In Seattle!

Winter has been a long time coming in the western U.S., but when it did finally arrive, it came in with a vengeance. Heavy snow has now fallen across that part of the country, much to the delight of skiers and snowboarders everywhere.

One of the best things about a big snow storm is that it often brings an unexpected snow day with it. And when the city of Seattle didn't get around to plowing some of the streets, the local kids (big and small) took advantage of the situation and broke out the sleds. The result is the video below, which is just full of good old fashioned fun and evokes memories of snow days long past in my youth.

I absolutely love the kid in the red sled who is wearing a bike helmet and ski goggles. Something tells me we'll see him again in the future.

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Video: Mountain Biking Nepal's Mustang Valley

So you say you've already trekked the Himalaya but still find that you can't resist the siren call of those beautiful mountains? Then how about mountain biking through Nepal with adventure travel company Sacred Rides. They offer what looks like an amazing trip through the less-visited Mustang region that may be the excuse you need to return to the Himalaya (or go there for the first time!). Check out some highlights in the video below.

When do we go?!?


Mountain Biking the Mustang Valley in Nepal with Sacred Rides from Sacred Rides on Vimeo.